Travel JournalsRead these travel tales and stories from visitors and enthusiasts
Great Keppel Island - Not Completely Wrecked
While the resort on Great Keppel Island may now be wrecked because of its closure due to re-development plans, the dream of holidaying on this sun-drenched paradish with its 17 white sandy beaches is still very much alive and possible because other accommodation is still available. Tony Walsh reports. Just ask the locals. Max Allen of Freedom Fast Cats (www.freedomfastcats.com), operates a 30-minute ferry service, Tuesday through Sunday from Pier One at Rosslyn Bay Boat Harbour, Yeppoon to Fisherman's Beach on the western shoreline of Great Keppel Island. A mariner and boat builder all his life, Max speaks highly from personal experience about the attractions of the Keppel group of islands which form part of the souther Great Barrier Reef. "Over these past decades, I have skippered charter boats up and down the Australian coast from New Guinea to Tasmania and way out into the Coral Sea," Max said. "Out of all the islands that I ever visted, Great Keppel Island is probably one of my favourites, and that's because of its coral reef, the clear water, diving and fishing and the white sandy beaches and how picturesque it is." As one of Max's passenger ferries nudges the sand and the crew lower the passenger ramp onto the soft sand, a few of the locals wander down the beach to collect their stores. Accommodation providers including Joanne Pitt from Keppel Haven Resort wave a friendly greeting to their incoming guests. We take a walk through the coconut trees to where the remnants of the once famous Wreck Bar stands forlornly behind hire-wire fencing as Joanne explains the present situation. "The 'Get Wrecked' resort closed suddenly in February last year followed by a huge aution that saw the generators and other machinery and even the white grand piano sold. "But there were other accommodation options then as there are now, and sure the island is quieter, but there is still plenty to do and plenty of places to stay, even holiday homes to rent," Joanne said. "This island is a very casual, laid-back place. That's the essential spirit. You don't have to get dressed up; you can come and do what you want, from chilling out to diving over the coral and catching your own rish for dinner. The over-arching atmosphere here is relaxation and your choice of accommodation can reflect that." On the path, we catch up with Peter Williams who has operated Keppel Reef Scuba Adventures for over 25 years from an old tin shed just above the high-water mark on the nornern-facing Putney Beach. Look inside though and the view takes in shelves and racks of the most modern diving gear and accessories. "The Keppel group is acclaimed for its great vaiety of dive sites and we have the highest density of fish life on the GBR," Peter says proudly. "There are shallow fringing reefs so it's really easy, elementary diving. The way I have the service structured, I can cruise out with just a few qualified divers which means that during these quiety times, I can still provide dive opportunities to guests on the island." Accommodation Keppel Haven Resort: www.keppelhaven.com offers a range of accommodation from beach house, 12 self-contained cabins, 10 budget cabins with their own ensuites, a bunkhouse for groups and tents. The bar and bistro is a great place to meet other guests and enjoy well-priced quality meals. A special package is currently available, priced at $99.00 per person and includes: return ferry transfers from Pier One at Rosslyn Bay Boat Harbour, Yeppoon, two nights accommodation in a tent, twin or double share, use of snorkelling gear, line supplied, except towels. Great Keppel Island Holiday Village: www.gkiholidayvillage.com.au offers on-site tents that have either double or twin beds, two cabins and a couple of houses for families. It occupies a quiet setting in the shade of the trees, just 50 metres away from the beach. Whatever your budget, you can be sure it won't get wrecked on Great Keppel Island. - Tony Walsh
For a close encounter with another of the the region's natural inhabitants, but with a bigger appetite than the Augusteyn's bats, head for the Capricorn Coast and John and Lillian Lever's Koorana Crocodile Farm.
John has more than 25 years experience dealing with crocodiles both in Australia and New Guinea and opened Queensland's first commercial crocodile farm on the island in Coorooman Creek in 1981. In his daily guided tour of the farm, John stresses that the common perception of crocodiles as nasty big animals with the sole purpose in life to rip your legs off is far from the truth. "In reality, they are highly-sensitive, caring animals to each other. In fact, that's what makes them dangerous to humans. The vast majority of attacks that occur in Australia are not hunger attacks but territorial attacks where the male is caring for the female and the female is caring for her young," John Lever explained. Mr Lever said that research had shown that attacks had occurred between November and March which coincided with the breeding season. "We have to try and understand the behaviour of crocodiles because there are so many falsehoods around. Every pub in Australia has a resident crocodile expert sitting around the bar." Some common crocodile myths:
"That's a load of nonsense," says John. "Crocodiles have been clocked at 42.5km so you just take big steps!"
"That's not true either," says John. "Crocodiles prefer their meat fresh. Crocodile Dundee said in one of his movies, and he was wrong, that when a crocodile grabs hold of you, he stuffs you under a log and saves you for another day."
The farm was also the first to serve crocodile meat, so a visit to Koorana is not complete without trying one of Lillian Lever's crocodile pies. The park is open everyday of the year except Christmas day, 10am-3pm. For more information: John & Lillian Lever
Step forward to Capricorn Caves near Rockhampton. This spectacular natural attraction has been a magnet for visitors since it was discovered in 1882 by Norwegian pioneer John Olsen.
Unlike most of the cave systems in Australia which are set underground, these caverns are located above ground level in a high limestone ridge and provide a very pleasant atmosphere even for the most claustrophobic person. The caves are wheelchair accessible, with ramps to the major gallery, Cathedral Cave.
Ken and Ann Augusteyn took over ownership of the caverns from the descendants of John Olsen.
All tours are conducted personally by a well informed guide. The most popular is the one hour exploration to Cathedral Cave. This tour meanders through large caverns with stalactite and stalagmite decorations set against the beautiful natural colours of the creamy limestone, rusty iron oxides and greens of the mosses and algae. But it is when visitors enter the 20m-high Cathedral Cave that the loudest oohs and aahs can be heard.
Restored church pews offer a place to sit and take in the magnificence of this environmental wonder. The Augusteyns have installed a sophisticated stereo sound system, its music enhanced by the natural acoustics of the cave. It’s no wonder that the Cathedral Cave is now in demand as a special wedding venue. In December each year, it is also used for the local Carols by Candlelight celebrations.
A very unusual natural phenomenon occurs in one of the caverns during the Summer Solstice on December 22 each year. Ann Augusteyn explains," Because the caves are located close to the Tropic of Capricorn, the sun shines directly overhead at around 11am during the Solstice. Fortunately, there is a natural vertical shaft in the roof of the cave and the rays of the overhead sun pour through with brilliant effect into the darkened cavern."
The caves are also home to thousands of little insectivorous bats. Though their presence is seasonal, those visitors fortunate to be at the caverns at the right time are rewarded at sunset when the bats leave to feed for the night.
Capricorn Caves are located 23km north of Rockhampton off the Bruce Highway and are open every day of the year except Christmas Day.
For more information:
Something Big is happening in Central Queensland! There's the Big Flower in Emerald, and on the nearby gemfields just about everything is out of control.
However, of all the Big attractions in the region, it is the Big Flower that has a special international connection. Cameron Cross, an artist from Altona, Emeralds sister city in Canada, approached the local community a few years ago with the idea to be one of seven sites around the world where he would paint a reproduction of one of Van Goghs seven "Sunflower" paintings.
Constructed from 24 sheets of 4ft x 8ft on 3/4 inch plywood standing on an 80ft steel easel, the Big Flower was unveiled back in October 1999. So far, three sites have been completed in Canada, America and Australia.
According to artist Cameron Cross, each of the seven sites has some significance to the sunflower or to Van Gogh. Emerald is a major centre for the growing of sunflowers in Australia and holds a Sunflower Festival around Easter each year.
Vincent Van Gogh completed seven paintings in his "Sunflower" series between the 1888 and 1890. He saw the sunflower as a symbol of life and hope, and his series of works also represented a unique period in art history known as Post-Impressionism.
There is a special place where Aborginal paintings and stencils can be traced back 25,000 years, this place is beautiful Carnarvon Gorge. Secret canyons in the gorge were used at various times during the latter years of the 19th century by Harry Redford, (aka Captain Starlight and the Kenniff Brothers) to hide stock from their cattle 'duffing' business. Today the Carnarvon Gorge Section of the vast Carnarvon National Park is the most popular tourist destination in Queensland's Central Highlands.
Andy Wentzel, our guide for the walk through the gorge, highlighted this interdependence as he stopped beside a towering cycad (Macrozamia moorei).
"This ancient plant has been around since the dinosaurs and the growth rate of this particular species is around 30 centimetres every 100 years."
Looking up to its feather-shaped fronds, Andy added, "I estimate this one to be around 1500 years old. This particular plant is a feature of Carnarvon Gorge. They do grow in other places but this is the largest that I have ever seen and here is the best place in Australia to see examples of old growth ones like these."
The main walking trail through the gorge follows Carnarvon Creek 9.7km to Big Bend while crossing this stream 22 times via strategically placed stepping-stones. Most of the important cultural and geographical sites are tucked away in steeped-sided canyons.
The most accessible display of Aboriginal rock art is at the Art Gallery, 5.5km from the visitor information centre. Under a 62m overhanging rock face, there are more than 2 000 engravings, ochre stencils and free-hand paintings- some dating back more than 3 000 years. Stencils and engraving are by far the most common type of art form found at the site. Stencils of objects allow us to see the exact shape of items in everyday use in Aboriginal society thousands of years ago. These included boomerangs and stone axes.
The Moss Garden (7.0km return) is located in the cool confines of Violet Gorge. Water drips constantly from sandstone walls supporting a lush carpet of mosses, ferns and liverworts. Beneath treeferns straining for sunlight a small waterfall tumbles over a rock ledge into an icy pool. Access to this side gorge involves some uphill sections with stairs.
Aljon Falls and Ward’s Canyon (9.2km return). The side track to this cool retreat starts just past creek crossing number nine. A short steep set of stairs leads past the Adjon Falls and into the narrow confines of the canyon where a stand of the King Ferns thrives in the moist environment. The ferns hold the classification of a ‘living fossil’ - a plant form that has remained unchanged over 300 million years!
A visible sign that this park has attracted more than its fair share of visitors since its gazettal in 1932 is an eroded boot print in the soft rock at a spot where all visitors naturally place the wet sole of their shoe or boot going into and out of the narrow gorge.
With so much to see and do in Carnarvon Gorge, most visitors plan to stay for three nights or more and are well catered for with a variety of accommodation options at either:
Managers of Carnarvon Gorge Wilderness Lodge, Martin Barrett and Kim Hill are always only too happy to share their knowledge of the park so that their guests maximize their experiences, however short their stay may be.
"The main attractions here are the sheer beauty of the gorge and the variety of walks available. All the tracks run close to water so that gives every outing a very pleasant feel," Martin said as he filled a backpack with lunch and refreshments for a couple heading out on a day trek to Big Bend (19.4km return) which lies in an elbow of the gorge beneath looming sandstone walls.
When they return, tired but exhilarated by their adventure, Martin’s guests are assured of great food and choice of good wines at dinner. Guests may choose to swim in the pool beforehand and will enjoy a good night’s rest after in safari-style bungalows with a raised deck complete with Queensland squatter's chairs and private facilities.
Queenslander Shows the Way
"Around Christmas time about 15 years ago. We were down here on the coast, had too many beers one day under the coconut palms and decided we would go ahead with the development.
"Another group of people had put together the proposals to the State Government to build this marina. They then had in place the approvals and were set to go but then decided not to fund it. Some say they ran out of courage," he said.
Nestled safely behind Double Head Rock on the Capricorn Coast, the Keppel Bay Marina is a refuge for all manner of watercraft from the fast ferries that transport guests to and from Great Keppel Island to visiting yachts from around the world. The marina is ‘town central’ for anyone interested in ‘messing around in boats.’
It is now northern Australia’s second largest marina with 290 berths offering an overnight stay as well as longer-term rental. The back-up facilities include a 40 tonne travelift, shipwright and all skilled trades for boat refits and maintenance. Its extensive chandlery has a wide range of stock and, for visiting mariners, prompt order and delivery for urgent items.
"This part of Queensland was unknown, but once we were happy with our decision to proceed - we saw it as a good opportunity to make a contribution to Central Queensland and identified the potential. We just didn’t realize just how damn difficult it was going to be," Richard said.
Richard and his wife Libbie, and daughter Kylie, were in the vanguard of the current explosion of developments along the Capricorn Coast. Their marina celebrated its 10th anniversary in May 2008.
There is still more to come on the site, which is bordered by two terrestrial national parks and the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park. They have nearly completed the construction and sale of 18 luxury villas which offer extensive views to the Keppel group of islands and for those purchasers who wish to venture out on the water in their own cruiser or yacht, Richard has thrown in a private 16 metre multi-hull pontoon in the villas sale price of $1.8million.
Beyond that, zonings are in place for another 300 residential apartments, a 120 room resort and various other commercial opportunities with the capital costs running into hundreds of millions of dollars.
Not a bad achievement for a cow cocky from Biloela who is showing the ‘blow-ins’ from south of the border how to create the biggest and most diverse marine and tourism hub on the Capricorn Coast.
Capricorn Caves
Now they expect much more and this is being delivered with such flair and excitement by Capricorn Caves, located 23 kms north of Rockhampton that it won the Adventure Tourism category at the 2005 Queensland Tourism Awards.
Ann Augusteyn Manager at Capricorn Caves explained, "We have worked very hard over the past five years to develop our adventure product. Back then, we had some adventure caving tours but they were very limited, so we broadened the scope of activities to include high ropes course and rock climbing."
The major difference between simply taking the guided walk through the caves and participating in the adventure activities is that John and his team escort adventure seekers of all ages into some of the more remote areas of the cave through its natural access, and that means climbing, crawling, squeezing and even abseiling in some areas, depending on the agility of each caver.
"We can always find something adventurous for anyone no matter what your level of adventure actually is", Ann said reassuringly.
While there is no permanent water in the caves, when it rains, waterfalls form and some areas can flood.
Ann said people find the most challenging activities include pushing their limits by abseiling in the caves and taking on feats such as working their way around the Whale’s Belly; a large boulder within one of the caves where there is a narrow crawl space that goes through it and comes out at the top.
"Quite a squeeze through," Ann said. "While some people may initially panic in the confined space, they can never really get stuck and it is just a matter of calming them down and then they can either wriggle forward or move slowly backwards.
"The cave system is also a special habitat for the rare Ghost Bats which can make a lot of noise and appear from nowhere. Their sonar is audible to humans so it comes as a bit of a shock when some people first hear it as a high-pitched scream that wails through the cave!" John said.
Adventure cavers may also encounter the occasional spotted rock pythons that live in the system and hunt for smaller bats. More than not, they are usually found in the smaller tunnels such as Fatman’s Misery which is a very small crawl space approximately six metres long and cavers have to crawl through on their belly.
"A guide always leads the way so if there are pythons around our guests are spared the shock of coming face to face with them," John explained. "They are only a python and are not going to harm you."
This is not the first tourism award won by Capricorn Caves. In 1995, it won the Tourism Award for Most Significant Local Attraction. Since then, it has won a number of finalist nominations. In 2003, it won a special award, The Chairman’s Award for Excellence, and in 2005, it entered a new category and won Best Tourism in the Adventure category.
"For adventure caving, we have activities for different age groups from primary school children right the way through the age groups as well as extreme adventures which run for the whole day and include rope access, vertical access and chimneying; depending on each caver’s ability and the overall group size.
"Older guests can enjoy the adventure activities as well with a range of challenges. Though some are more interested in taking that extra step instead of following the guided tour. They suit up and it becomes more of an exploration rather than an adventure. They are not so much interested in the adventure but more in the beauty, aesthetics, the science of the cave system and the environment there."
Outside the cave system, a five-metre high ropes challenge course has been built and it includes a series of obstacles, which the climbers have to overcome. There are seven challenges in total and the reward at the end to make the climber’s way back to the ground is an exhilarating 30m flying fox ride.
A rock climbing wall is a separate activity altogether it has an eight-metre high tower with 15 different level climbs; some of them are overhangs while others are up flat walls depending on the expertise on each climber.
Families are especially catered for at Capricorn Caves including Gary Tipin and Debbie with children, Brooke 11 and Abigail 9 years-of-age of Caboolture.They were drawn to the attraction while on a driving holiday through the region.
"We wanted to challenge the girls and build on their confidence and ability so that they would feel comfortable attempting something new," Debbie said as Brooke wiggled her way through Fatman’s Misery.
Gary added, "Anybody of any age just about, wouldn’t have any trouble doing this. It is an awesome experience. I came here to the caves when I was 12 with my mum and dad and I thought it would be perfect to bring the girls up here and when we saw there was an adventure component we thought it would get all of us out there and into it and share the challenge."
The confident smiles of satisfaction on all their faces showed that their mission had been clearly accomplished.
It is northern Australia’s largest marina with 290 berths offering an overnight stay as well as longer-term rental. The back-up facilities include a 40 tonne travelift, shipwright and all skilled trades for boat refits and maintenance. Its extensive chandlery has a wide range of stock and, for visiting mariners, prompt order and delivery for urgent items.
Overlooking the marina, the new Bayside Villas beckon those boaties who decide that this is the place to moor their lifestyle permanently as each villa includes a private 16 metre multihull pontoon.
And if you think the promise of living adjacent to perhaps Queensland’s most relaxed and beautiful offshore cruising region may not be sufficient to tempt you to make the move, the Director of the marina, Richard Wilson, has a story of his own conversion.
Richard gave a hearty laugh as he recalled the circumstances. "We were on the land west of Rockhampton. My father was a grazier and generations of the family before him, mainly involved in the production of beef cattle.
"Another group of people had put together the proposals to the State Government to build this marina. They then had in place the approvals and were set to go but then decided not to fund it. Some say they ran out of courage.
"That was around Christmas time 15 years ago. We were down here on the coast, had too many beers one day under the coconut palms and decided we would go ahead with the development."
For visitors without their own craft, the marina has its own small fleet of bareboats including a 37-foot Ventura Cat with twin diesels. It cruises at 8 knots and the skipper only needs a recreational boat licence to operate it. There is also a 35-foot Resort monohull cruiser that sleeps about eight people. As well, there are two yachts, both Benitos: 28 and 38 footers.
Richard has a Scimitar 1010 flybridge power catamaran. It is available for full day fishing trips for up to 10 people and also for group charters for half and full day, excursions as well as overnight charters for up to 12 people. For more information on the marina , fishing and cruise charters and Bayside Villas, freecall 1800 336 244 or visit keppelbaymarina.com.au
One of Richard’s guests on our fishing cruise to the Fern Reefs was Graham Scott a local consulting engineer who just loves to get out on the water and has been doing just that in the region since he first learnt to tie a hook on a line when he was a small boy. He is a firm believer in responsible fishing and that conservation is everyone’s responsibility.
Graham says it is the variety of fishing that makes this region so special. The catch on this day, from fishing halfway to the Swains, 80km north-east of Yeppoon, echoed his words with a good haul including a 20kg Queensland Greasy Cod, over regulation-sized Trevally, Red Emperor, Coral Trout, Amberjack, Sweetlip, Red Jew, Mackeral and Barramundi Cod. Most of the fish caught by the group was willingly tagged and released by Graham.
He is also a keen angler around the region’s in-shore haunts. "While there is plenty of country out there for big, exciting fishing, I still like pottering around the Keppels. There are 18 islands, all with great sandy beaches and great anchorages where it’s quiet and calm. But if you want the big stuff, you can charter a boat through Richard or if you have a trailer-sailor you can come up and do your own thing."
Now, that’s a fishing tale with a good ending because it’s all here in the Capricorn region of Queensland.
Tony Walsh - Profile
Tony has written four books, mainly on historical themes of Queensland: Lady Elliot, First Island of the Great Barrier Reef. World Expo 88, Brisbane (Co. A). Far North Queensland, Australia’s Last Frontier. Queensland on Both Sides of the Bar.
He is continually amazed at the depth and variety of travel writing subjects to be found in the Capricorn region of Queensland.
Tony is also a member of the Australian Society of Travel Writers and has wide contacts in the Australian and international media network.
|
